Epoxy on Floors

Our epoxy works great for small bathroom floors or other small areas. It may not be cost effective for larger areas. 

The epoxy does make for a slicker floor at first but it will not be slippery after walking on it a few times. Our epoxy is commonly used for penny floors.

Here would be the steps:

1. You would glue your pennies to the surface using Elmer's Glue (do not use super glue or hot glue the epoxy will reactivate the glue and the pennies will become detached). Let the glue dry.

2. Once your glue has dried and you are not going to grout them you can skip this step and proceed to step three. If you are going to grout them in make sure you do that after the glue dries and allow the grout to dry for the recommend dry time of the grout.

3. After the glue and the grout have dried, in any rooms that have air vents on the floor make sure that you use a  Temporary Dam to dam off the vents so that you don't get epoxy into them. You will also want to follow this same method in your bathroom to block off your drain hole for the toilet. 

4. You can now begin with the seal coat process. You need to make sure that the temperature stays above 75 degrees while you work with the product as well as 72 hours after you finish working with the epoxy for it to cure. You can use a space heater in the room or use the thermostat in your house (if you use your thermostat you will want to put it around 78 degrees because they are not 100% accurate). I would recommend letting the room acclimate to the higher temperature for at least 1 hour before you start your project. 

The seal coat is a small batch of epoxy that is brushed on in a thin layer to seal any pores in the surface and prevent air bubbles from forming in the following flood coat. Our epoxy is used for both your seal coat and your flood coat. You do not need a different product. Both seal and flood coats are always a 50/50 mixture. For the seal coat, mix up a small batch and use a very good paint brush (around $10 at the home improvement store) to apply to surface. You will paint it on just as you paint on a wall. You will then need to let the seal coat cure for 24 hours, so you can walk on the surface.

5. After the seal coat dries, you will then start the flood coat process. (It is crucial to know that the flood coat needs to be done all at once, if you don't do it all at once then you will end up with lines between your coats). You will need to start in the very far back of the room and pour your way out, after every batch that you pour you have 20 mins to get the next batch up next to it so that it will remain seamless between batches. You also will need to use a blow torch/heat gun to remove air bubbles from the flood coat, you have 30 mins from the time you apply the flood coat batch to do this. Continue this process until you are out of the room.

6. Once you have finished pouring your flood coat you now need to let it cure for 72 hours above 75 degrees. Remember that your room needs to be above 75 degrees the entire time you are applying the seal coat and the flood coat.

7. After the 72 hours are done you can remove or turn down the temperature in that room, remove the dams and begin putting the room back together to get ready for use.

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